Small Mods and Discoveries

Cupboard SupportDoor SealDual Tank ConversionFolding Bed ExtensionPower Cable Modification
Rear ShelfRiser BlocksBunk Hinge LocationRange Hood Fan

Cupboard Support

I decided to replace the wrought iron top cupboard support with one that matched the new counter top.

It is made up of five pieces of wood, three strips 3/8" thick and two strips of 1/4" thick plywood glued together to make two channels.

The exterior is covered with the same formica as the countertop.

I drilled two 3/8" holes in the edge of the countertop and the bottom of the cupboard that lined up with the two channels. A length of 1/4" ready rod runs up the rear channel to lock the support in place, the wires for the 12 volt lights run up the other one. I drilled small holes for screws that go into the front spacer to hold the support from twisting.

Door Seal

I found some strips of white rubber door seal at Home Depot. It is made in Sweden and sold as M Profile, here are pictures of the product on the trailer and the package.

Dual Tank Conversion

We carry a second tank with a tree for the campstove, lantern and barbecue so this is more for transportation than extra capacity. I replaced the upright rod that came with the unit with a longer length of ready rod that protruded through the bottom of the tray and through a hole drilled in the original plate, using nuts and washers I basically clamped the new tray to the frame. I added four small screws that go into tapped threads in the top of the frame to keep it from rotating. I had to cut a notch in the base of the jack so it would fit around the tray.

Folding Bed Extension

It was always hard to find a place to store the four foot long board that we use to extend the bed.I glued and screwed a length of 1X4 to the bottom of the plywood, sawed it in half and joined the two sections with a 3 1/2" door hinge. This is strong enough to support the cushions yet folds up so it can be easily stored at the back of the well between the benches when the table is up.

Power Cable

The 110 volt power cable was originally attached to the trailer and stored in the cabinet under the sink. It was usually a tangled mess under there and we needed all the space for storage that we could find. I cut the cable and added a locking twist connector so the long end of the cable can be removed and is now stored in a tub in the towing vehicle along with the water hose, blocks and crank for the stablizer jacks, etc. The short end is just pushed back into the outlet cover.

Range Hood Fan

Picked up a used range hood and gave it a coat of paint, the fan is a 12 volt computer fan that is directed to blow out the window.

Rear Shelf

The method was not pretty but it worked. I clamped a 1 X 2 strip to the side curtain rods with spacers under each end to obtain the level of the bottom of the shelf. I marked 2" increments across the edge of the strip, then measured back to the wall and at each increment and recorded it on the strip. I used small sections of cardboard on the ends to get the profiles and stapled them to the strip. I then removed the wood strip and stapled more cardboard in the center section and marked it off measuring back from each increment mark.

Riser Blocks

Two inches in height was added to this 1976 Boler with riser blocks. Square tubing was drilled to fit the mounting holes and inserted between the axel and the frame.

How we did it

We cut the tubing to length and drilled two 1/2" diameter holes spaced to fit the existing mounting bolts. Four 1/2" X 3 1/2" grade 8 bolts were used to replace the original bolts. Raise the trailer so the wheels are about 3" off the ground, block securily, remove the wheels. Loosen all the mounting bolts, then remove the bolts on one side and let the axel drop down, this is a two person job, insert the riser block and leave the new longer bolts loose for now. Remove the bolts from the other side and insert the second block, snug the bolts on this side. Tighten the bolts on the first side you worked on then go back and tighten the second side.

Top Bunk Hinge Placement

When I had the upholstery replaced one of the dilemmas I had was how to put the hinges back in their original positions.

I unzipped the cover so I could locate the old screw holes, I then pushed small finishing nails through the cover into the center hinge holes. I zipped the cover up again and made sure there was no tension on the nails, I had to remove one nail and reposition it. I then dropped the hinge over the finishing nail and put the two outside screws in, then removed the nail and inserted the third one.

How To's & Info

Acorn Nuts On Pop Rivets

Boler Specs.

Cushion Templates

Door Sag Quick Fixes

Drawer Above Fridge

Hitches and Towing

Making a New Frame

Replace a Window Crank

Scissor Jack Levellers

Screen Door

Small Mods & Discoveries

Wiring and Batteries

Useful Links

Photo Album




 

 

ice cream freezer patent drawing
1929 Ice Cream Freezer Patent Drawing
Frame For Illustration Only

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